1. Winter Dog Care Advice

    Winter Dog Care Advice

    As you prepare for low temperatures, winds, ice, snow and whatever, it is vital that you think about what you can do to make your dog's winter that little bit better.

    Is your dog crate warm?

    OK, I know if it's wire mesh that may seem a bit of a daft question, but think about it - is your crate in a draught? Is it too near a fire or electric heater - or too far away?
    There's lots that can go wrong, so safety first is always good. Keep fires screened and electric wires away from your dog's reach.
    And think about a crate cover and warm bedding such as a self warming Flectabed or the popular  Vetbed to help with the warmth. A purpose made dog crate cover can be used with one, two or more sides down to shelter from draughts, whilst allowing the dog crate to be left with an open door for ease of entry. A little planning can make such a difference. 

    Dog food - what is needed?

    Is your dog very active with lots of outdoor runs and walks? If so it will certainly need more calories to combat the cold, give energy and maintain a healthy body weight.
    Alternatively, if your dog prefers the life of luxury with as little running about in the cold as possible, then fewer calories will be needed.
    In either case it is important that the food is right and it is always wise to consider natural dog food. Here we offer several alternatives and have 'compare' buttons, so check it out and choose your best winter food. If in doubt, then have a chat with your vet who will be pleased to help.
    Stock up on food and medication in case it gets too dangerous to venture out. Always have a supply of fresh water available - even when outside.

    Have you thought about a dog coat or boots?

    We all feel the cold, and your dog is no different even if it has a wonderfully thick coat. It may benefit from a dog coat which will keep the warmth in. Think also about the dark nights and bad visibility and choose one with reflective safety strips.
    Have a chat with your groomer to see if any special preparation of the coat is necessary. Dog breeds with a history of surviving in the cold may not need too much special grooming, but thinner coated breeds may need the dog coat.
    Think also about paws, and whether it is necessary to get some doggy boots. If your dog keeps lifting it's paws, or is reluctant to walk, or generally complains, it may be that the paws are too cold. Sharp ice can cut paw pads, so always check your dog's paws after a snowy or icy walk. Ask your groomer if your dog would benefit from extra grooming attention around the paws as long hair here can easily act as a trap for ice and snow. Check for redness, scratches or other soft tissue damage, remembering that there may well be anti freeze, salt or an array of chemicals which can be detrimental to your dog's health, so if you walk on salted pavements, wash your dog's paws when you get in to prevent irritation.

    When you are out and about.

    Stay well away from frozen ponds, lakes and rivers. If you do have to go near them, keep your dog on a lead, because if they do go onto ice, you may find it really tempting to go after them. DON'T! Most dogs are strong swimmers, and stand more chance in water than you do.
    Remember that snow can cover up potholes and other hazards, so be especially aware.
    Be careful in icy or slippery conditions - especially on steps, pavement edges or slopes. If you find it difficult walking in ice or strong winds - keep indoors and exercise your dog with lively indoor games.
    When you do go out, both you and your dog should wear bright reflective clothing - see dog coats above.
    Always make sure your dog wears a collar when outdoors - and is microchipped!

    And when you have done all of that - enjoy your winter together!

    Future blogs.

    This is an ongoing series of blogs which is intended to be of help. If we have not answered whatever is troubling you yet then click on the link below and ask us to write a blog about your concern. Or if you have any other questions about crates, cages, play pens, dog runs, healthy diet or any other doggy question then let us know. If we can help, we will.

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  2. When your Vet says your dog needs crate rest.

    Bandaged dog needing crate rest

    • What should I know when my Vet says my dog needs crate rest?

    • What does it mean?

    • Do I need a special dog crate?

    • Read on for helpful tips.

    So your vet says "A few weeks of crate rest is needed here."  

    So what now?

    Nothing prepares you for this. OK, you may have a dog crate anyway - but will this be the one to use? Probably not.
    Crate rest is usually advised after major surgery following illness or an accident, and means that it is essential for your dog's movements to be controlled - and there is usually no better place to control movements than in a dog crate. But it doesn't end there!
    You need to ask your vet exactly how much movement is allowed; what posture is best for the dog - lying on its side with legs straight out? Or on its tummy? And of course, how long will this go on as a period of 4, 6 or 8 weeks is not unheard of, and in some cases can be as long as 6 months. So its important you get this right.
    The dog is usually confined in the crate almost full time, being let out for toilet duties only, and then only on a leash - certainly in the early days. You may even have to carry your dog to the toilet area. Discuss this with your vet so that early healing is not impeded. Don't allow your dog to become too excited on these toilet trips, and never allow any jumping up or bouncing. As they say - 'keep calm and carry on.'
    It is essential that you choose the correct size of dog crate, and it is not unusual to choose a very big crate - 54ins / 60ins/ or even 72ins, although small breeds will obviously be OK in much smaller crates. You must agree the size with your vet, and have the crate waiting in your home for when the dog returns home, as even with very fast delivery periods, the dog needs the crate straight away - crate rest means crate rest. Croft have what is perhaps the biggest size range available from any supplier, so you should find the size you need.
    And then you move on to the next phase. The recuperation.

    Kitting out and positioning your dog crate.  

    Remember that the crate is about to become your dog's world view, so make it comfortable. Discuss everything with your vet in case there are special needs, but it is not unusual to include some comfortable hygenic flooring, such as Vetbed, which can be easily washed and dried - not forgetting to have two sets of almost everything so there is never a problem. Traditional dog beds are rarely recommended for crate recovery as they tend to dominate the dog's lying position. If you need to leave water bowls inside the crate then make sure they can be firmly secured within the crate, remembering that your dog may not be as agile as it once was.
    The recovery crate must be kept in a draught-free position, yet be somewhere that the dog has a view of family life. This can cause a problem if there is too much going on and your dog has disturbed sleep. This is important because much healing is done during sleep. So have a crate cover or a blanket ready to hand to put over the crate giving your dog as few sleep impairment moments as possible.

    Fighting boredom.  

    Once you have chosen your dog crate and have done the basics of comfort, the healing process really does become a team effort with you and your dog. Boredom is often the biggest problem so be prepared to have lots of toys and chews, and use them on a rotational basis. More is better.
    Companies such as Kong have a wonderful choice of strong and safe stuffable toys which you can pack with biscuits, treats, cheese or almost any tasty bit. You may want to tie the Kong to the side of the crate so that it does not roll out of reach and force unnecessary movement.
    Chewing is a great relaxing pastime, but make sure that the chew is safe and will not cause choking. Of the nylon chews we always advise Nylabone chews, although other makes are available. However, don't go for the cheapest chew, or those which can be chewed open and expose a whistle or rattle which can be swallowed. Check out your local pet shop for quality puzzle toys - anything to fight boredom. It really is worth while spending extra to ensure safety and a feeling of well-being.
    But don't go overboard with fattening treats. Remember that as your dog is not taking much exercise it may not need the usual intake of calories. Again, discuss this with your vet.

    Two's company, so buddy up!  

    Does your dog like to be cuddled? If so give lots of cuddles, inside the crate if that is possible. Our larger crates will easily take you and your dog. You should also give lots of grooming and stroking - massage brushes are a great idea and avoid hair pulling. This will make your dog relaxed and less likely to want to get up and about - remember this is crate confinement so make it as good as you can.
    You can also use this time to train your dog in simple tasks which demand little in the way of exercise - such as 'don't touch', 'sniff out the treat' and so on.
    Some advocate the playing of relaxing music during your one-on-one time together avoiding noisy high tempo music. Relaxation is the key.

    And finally .....  

    Crate rest is not great - much like being in hospital for a long time is not great, but it is necessary and can be made as pleasant as possible. Use the time to bond together.
    Your first duty is to get the right size of dog crate, and be prepared to get another smaller one as healing progresses. No-one said it was going to be cheap, but you can make it rewarding and ensure the healing time is as short as possible.
    Good luck!

    This is an ongoing series of blogs about dog crates and puppy crates which is intended to be of help. If we have not answered whatever is troubling you yet then click on the link below and ask us to write a blog about your concern. Or if you have any other questions about crates, cages, play pens, dog runs, healthy diet or any other doggy question then let us know. If we can help, we will.

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  3. Dog crates and cages. Is it cruel to crate? How long should you crate?

    More Q & A on dog crates and puppy crates.

    Continuing our blogs on dog crates and cages, we answer some really important and popular questions which keep being asked. We all want the best for our puppy and adult dog, and we hope that we can help you find the right course of action for you.
    We already have page on crate training your dog - click HERE to see it - but it is our intention to expand on this in the near future and if you want personalised advice please drop us an e mail by using the 'contact us' link at the foot of this page in the left hand column.
    But here we explore two questions, "Are dog crates cruel?" and "How long can a dog or a puppy be left in a crate or play pen?"

    Are dog crates cruel?


    Simple answer - no, of course not. Read on to see why!
    You will see that most dogs love their crate - it is their own bit of private space.


    "just the right place to go when your dog is tired, nervous or just wants a bit of peace and quiet"

    There are many people who are initially reluctant to crate a dog or puppy because they see it as cruel and think the dog will not like the confinement. Some even liken it to a jail! But this is looking at a crate through human eyes and bringing human thoughts to a very doggy question. A dog or puppy simply has no pre-conceived ideas and assuming you have had the time to correctly crate train your dog, then it will see the crate as a place of security, privacy, quietness and safety. Dogs are by instinct a den animal, and the crate is a den. By crating you are responding to this very basic doggy instinct. It is the opposite of cruelty!
    Of course a dog crate can be abused but that is not the fault of the crate, but a fault of the owner. You will find that using the crate appropriately can help with toilet training, combatting any urge towards destructive behaviour and teaching your dog and puppy to relax and chill out. It should be a place of happiness. By good training, love and patience you can achieve these aims.
    A dog often welcomes the crate as it's own safe place; it's own den; it's own place of refuge. Try leaving the door open when you are around, place a few toys and a bed inside (see previous blog) and you should reap the rewards. Your dog and puppy will love the safety and security that a crate can bring. It is just the right place to go when your dog is tired, nervous or just wants a bit of peace and quiet - perhaps away from children, visitors or even the TV.
    Most dogs love their crate, so time spent on crate training is time well spent and the crate will add enjoyment to your dog's life as well as your own. An added bonus may well be that you use the crate during car trips and travel, in hotels etc., where the relaxation the crate brings will help to combat any other stress or distraction. 
    So no, a crate is not cruel. Used correctly it can be one of the kindest things you can do for your dog or puppy.

    How long can my dog or puppy be left in a crate?


    This depends on many factors including the age of the dog or puppy, and how training has been carried out. How long is too long? There are a few general 'rules of thumb' and these are explained below.


    "Whatever the age of a dog or puppy, it should never be crated for longer than it can control its bowels and bladder."

    The age of your dog or puppy is a big factor, as well as to how you prepare for crating. Your dog should always be thoroughly exercised before any prolonged crating, and given adequate time to eliminate all waste. This way the chance of crate defecation is reduced, and the dog will be much more prepared to sleep. The length of exercise time obviously depends on the breed, and your breeder or vet will be able to guide you here.A big or energetic breed will need a lot of time.
    The crate should be prepared with bedding, toys, water and all the comforts your dog enjoys. The crate should be welcoming. Full crate training must already have been carried out so that your dog is content within the crate. Only then can we begin to think of how long your dog or puppy can be left without a break.
    So, the age of the dog is important.
    It is unreasonable to expect a puppy to be able to control its bladder for very long, so a young puppy can only be left for a short time without the risk of 'accidents'.
    Many behaviourists and experts have an 'hour a month' rule, although it is unreasonable to expect a puppy of up to eight weeks to spend more than an hour crated. It will simply not be able to control its bladder. Whatever the age of a dog or puppy, it should never be crated for longer than it can control its bowels and bladder.
    So, a two month old puppy may be able to last 2 hours crated, a 3 month old 3 hours, and so on. Many experts say that a puppy up to the age of 6 months should spend no more than 3 or at the most 4 hours crated during the day, and give a guide of 6 hours as an optimum maximum time as the dog gets older, although this period may be able to be extended by an hour or two if the dog is comfortable with that. For ourselves (we have scotties) we like to set a 5 hour maximum, but this sometimes has to be extended due to particular circumstances, and if this is the exception rather than the rule then little harm will be done. If you leave your dog or puppy whilst you are at work, please try to get home once or twice during the day to allow the dog to relieve itself, or if this is not possible ask a friend or relative to let the dog out for you. Otherwise hire a dog walker - it probably is not as expensive as you fear, and you will have peace of mind.
    A dog is a social animal and ideally should not be alone for most of the day. If you are away a long time, then as soon as you get back, give your dog some exercise and food.
    Nightime crating is slightly different and the time can be extended so that you get a good sleep as well, although until the puppy is thoroughly toilet trained be prepared for a night of broken sleep.
    It is true that some dogs may suffer from separation anxiety even after a very short time, and may attack the crate, perhaps biting the the mesh. This is not a fault of the crate but is an obvious safety hazard and must be treated seriously, taking advice from your vet as necessary. However, crate training is key, and if your dog is exhibiting behaviour which is unwanted, then the answer is probably training, training and more training.Good behaviour should be rewarded. We will return to this subject in a future blog, but if you are unfortunate enough to have trouble, return to training and take the advice of your vet.
    However, most dogs can be safely left for a reasonable time within their dog crate when planning and training will hopefully be relied on to solve most potential problems.
    In the puppy Q&A section of this website we do have some guidance on owning a puppy and going out to work. You can read this by clicking HERE.
    As with most things to do with a dog's welfare you will find that kindness, consideration, common sense, planning and training will help to overcome most things, and these qualities certainly apply to deciding the length of time you can safely crate your dog, and we hope that these few notes help decide the optimum time for you.

    Future blogs.

    This is an ongoing series of blogs about dog crates and puppy crates which is intended to be of help. If we have not answered whatever is troubling you yet then click on the link below and ask us to write a blog about your concern. Or if you have any other questions about crates, cages, play pens, dog runs, healthy diet or any other doggy question then let us know. If we can help, we will.

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  4. Dog Crates - Where to put them and what to put inside.

    Dog Crates - Where to put them and what to put inside.

    Blogging on dog crates.

    We have been asked many, many questions over the years about dog crates - how to use them, is it cruel to crate (no!), which type of crate is best for you, what size etc etc.
    So we are introducing a series of blogs which will help with most crate questions. This first blog in the series is intended to help with a couple of less obvious, but still important, crating questions. 

    Where should I put my crate in the home?

    The first thing to remember is that dogs are generally social animals and love company, so a crate should never be in a lonely place. But it does depend on how you are using your crate, and what you want out of it.If you are just using it as a bed then remember that a dog likes to sleep - a lot! So it should be in an accessible room whether this be your lounge, kitchen, utility room, hallway or bedroom. If you leave the crate door open then your dog can pop in and out at will.
    Ideally it should be in a busy room where your dog is not alone and can feel a part of what is happening around it. To put the crate in too quiet an area may make your dog feel lonely or isolated, and this is not good. View the crate as you would view your own armchair and put it in an important place in your home and you will find that your dog loves it!
    Do not place it in a draughty area, or in direct sunlight, or too near a fireplace or radiator. I know this can be difficult but it is important that your dog doesn't feel too hot or too cold - take the 'Goldilocks' approach and all will be well.

    What should I put in my dog crate?

    Well, dog crates should be comfortable and welcoming. The comfortable part is quite easy to solve by using a crate mat or piece of Vetbed to take the hardness off the floor. At home, we use both. When we are dog tired we all like to snuggle so you may even consider putting a bed or snugglebag inside the crate, and this will be very popular with your dog.
    You may also consider a water bowl which hooks or clamps on to the crate side - a very popular accessory but perhaps one that should not be used if you are using your dog crate as part of toilet training! 
    And then we come to the fun bit. Especially in the early months and years a dog likes to chew, and you don't want it chewing the crate walls so think about chew toys. It is usually unwise to leave a dog alone with a stuffed toy, or one made from cheaper rubber or plastic, or one with a squeaker as if these are ingested the dog can become seriously ill. So choose your toys and chews carefully and go for a well known brand name such as Kong or Nylabone. Some Kong toys can be stuffed with treats which are always popular, and there is such a variation of Nylabone chews that your dog need never be bored.
    A well planned dog crate and contents will pay dividends. It is a very important place in your dog's life so will find that opting for quality will bring you peace of mind - and a happy dog.

    Future blogs.

    As we said above, this is just the first in a series of blogs about dog crates. If you want us to write about any aspect of dog crates or playpens then please contact us using the link below, and ask. If we can help, we will.

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  5. Don't you just hate it when that happens?

    Don't you just hate it when that happens?

    Talking about dog run panels.

    We have been making dog run panels for the best part of 40 years, and- although we say it ourselves - have a pretty good reputation. So far, so good.

    We have shown these panels on our website for years, BUT a few months ago we had the idea of updating our website (this is it - hope you like it), but we overlooked to include some really good accessories such as our sliding hatch and intermediate posts.
    We have been so wrapped up in designing the site and making it good to look at that we didn't check we had included these really great dog run accessories - don't you just hate it when that happens! We showed the sliding hatch at Crufts this year and received some great comments and lots of interest, but no website orders. Now we know why. This has now been corrected and here are the missing items at the foot of this blog - hope you like them!
    The sliding hatch design shown is the one we have been making for years and is tried and tested in commercial boarding kennels. We are now working on designing a new sliding hatch which will be equally strong, but hopefully cost a lot less. Watch this space! Because of this impending price reduction, we have reduced the price of the existing hatch which will continue to be available whilst stocks last, so now is the time to get a great bargain. Details are shown on this blog.

    The other product we failed to include on the site is the intermediate post for dog runs. This is not needed often in a standard boarding kennel system as where two panels are joined at right angles the post is not necessary. However, if you want to join several panels in a long straight line to form a fence or a super-big kennel run, then the post is necessary to prevent the panels swaying if a big, heavy dog jumps up at it. Check this great idea out on the link, and see if it is for you!

    Whatever you decide, if you have any questions on anything to do with the items highlighted in this blog, just ask us. You can do this by phone - 01257 484200 - or by using the 'contact us' box on this website (see below and the left hand menu on our home page)

    Thanks for reading this blog about our dog run panels and accessories. We hate it when we forget things, but are glad we can blog to put the matter right. Scroll down to see the links to these great ideas.

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